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Stars sparkled over black mountains as we drove along steep, dark roads into the lush Sierra Gorda of eastern Mexico. High in these hills lie the ancestral lands of the Huastec people, with villages, coffee farms, rugged slopes and powerful waterfalls. Centuries-old traditions flourish here, and we had come to experience one in particular.
But, while Day of the Dead is mainly celebrated within families on 1 and 2 November, with visits to cemeteries to clean graves and leave gifts of food and flowers, Xantolo is a rowdy, days-long party in the town square.
But at Xantolo, the partying is done by and for the locals. As we arrived in Xilitla this time last year, we fell into a parade of revellers in wooden masks, depicting elderly people, skulls, animals and demons. A man dressed up as a scantily clad woman cut through the crowd on a dirt bike, popping a wheelie to the delight of dancing children as a truck passed by, full of people dressed as skeletons twerking in the back. The parade led young and old to the town centre where a three-piece band a violin and two guitar-like instruments, the bassy haupanguera and the higher-pitched jaran played traditional Huasteca music.
The following night, 1 November, was notably more solemn. We joined a parade at least strong, all in long gowns, flower headdresses and skeletal face paint we brought ours from Mexico City , each holding a single candle.
We moved at a slow pace through the cobbled streets, in silent homage to the dead. The following day is more aligned to the traditional pastime: families gathering in their homes to share stories about deceased loved ones. Xilitla is one of the largest towns hereabout, but sees mostly Mexican tourists, with just the occasional foreigner.